And then now another (I hope) helpful tip! A lot of us use aquarium tubing (see the picture!) to prevent the wire from digging into the bark of the tree when we are bending thick branches toward each other with the help of a tension wire between those two branches!
See example below: Imagine that the right side tubing is bended around a tree trunk or branch! And now we want to bend that left side tubing just like the right side around a trunk or branch, but then we have a problem because we cant stick the wirers trough the tube to tightened them together (red arrow)?!
Below: Well here is the solution to that problem! With the help of a concave cutter (see the picture!) cut out a small bite off one side of the tub!
Below: So that you are left with a piece of tube that looks like this (see the picture!)!
Below: Now you do can run both ends of the wire through both ends of the tube en run them through the hole you just cut out! Slide the tube down the wire as tightly against the bark as possible and with a tong twist both ends of the wire as tight as necessary to bend and hold the two branch/es or two trunks in position!
Now I know that I wrote before about using 5mm thick household sisal rope instead of raffia or burlap to protect the branch that you want to bend from breaking! Well, they say: the proof is in the pudding! So here we go: I had to wire a mature thumb thick branch on my old White Pine (Pinus parviflora) from China and then bend it a lot! So I had to protect it from cracking, but I was oud off Raffia?! But I did find half a ball of sisal rope more than enough to protect that branch with two tightly wind layers of sisal on top of each other. Then that now with sisal protected right branch was wired with 4 mm aluminium wire and then slowly bent pretty severely to become almost a back branch! All without any trouble whatsoever! So my advice: always have some sisal 5 mm rope around as a backup! Cheers and stay safe everybody, Hans.
P.S.: Below is a link to the YouTube channel of “Love Bonsai” where I for the first time saw a lovely and strong Chinees female Bonsai artist protect the thickest of branches with sisal rope and then wire them with aluminium wire! And boy those she bent them and never brakes one!!! Go have a look!!!👍👍👍
Bending a branch or a trunk with the help of aluminium or copper wire is one of the most important and commonly used techniques when styling raw material or Bonsai. Hard to bend and easy breakable branches or even trunks are often tightly wrapped within water-soaked Raffia before the wire is applied to protect them from cracking or breaking. when that is done properly the change of breaking while bending is reduced to a minimum! But the appliance of a bundle of these sometimes 1.5 meters long and socking wet strings of Raffia on a good ramified or smaller tree with little room to move and breakable branches and foliage is not that easy! No fare from it, because they get stuck behind every little branch or foliage and more often than not small branches are broken when applying wet Raffia, especially on deciduous trees! So A couple of years ago to avoid that risk of damage, I started to use regular household 5 mm Sisal rope that you can buy all over the world in any good household store. A long enough cut off piece of Sisal rope is so much easier to hold, handle and apply than those heavy wet sticking to everything strings of Ravia! When the branch/trunk is enough protected with tightly wrapped Sisal, I will wet the Sisal thoroughly with water and then seal it all tightly with electrical tape. This way the Ravia will stay wet for many months preventing little cracks that might occur from bending to dry out! The necessary wires to bend the branch or trunk are applied over the tape and then bending can be done safely!
Below: A thumbs thick Prunus mahaleb yamadori trunk is safely heavily bent with a minimum of wires.The branch on the left side still needs to be soaked and tightly wrapped with tape.
Below: Taped, wirred and bended with out any damage or problems!
Below: Late summer the tape is cut with a sharp hobby knife and removed! Without any harm or damage, the Sisal rope is very easily rewound to get it off…so much easier and safer than with Raffia!!!
Give it a try the next time you have to protect a branch or trunk on a difficult to reach or fragile tree!
Remember my earlier post from 2018 were I with a saw separated one Sabina Juniper Yamadori into two Sabina’s?! I had bought it a year earlier in 2017 at my long time Bonsai friend Teunis – Jan Klein his amazing Bonsai Center “Deshima” (NL). In April 2018 I believed that it was strong enough to be sawed in half! By doing so I created two new beautiful trees! Below: Just before the separation.
Below: Successfully separated to become two Bonsai in the future!
Below: Fast forward to half September 2020. The two new pre-Bonsai have been heavily fed the whole growing season and both look very ready to be styled for the first time!
Below: The second one always reminded me of an old cascading Literati Juniper that I found very inspiring in my early Bonsai years. But for that sort of image, I have to tilt it heavily next repotting to create the cascading movement! But that is for the near future!
Below: It will be styled tilted something like this with a sharp inclination like a ski jumping ramp, with smaller and thinner foliage peds on the lower part of the image creating a lot of visual speed down to the left! I am very excited about this second one and am looking forward to start styling them both further!
First a short recap/history: It was discovered and collected by me during my visit to the U.K in November 2007. It was growing from underneath a large flat like bolder that itself was covered by several smaller once! Below: After some hard work finally freed from its crushing heavy load!
Below: Spring 2010. After a scary time where it lost most of its foliage, it fought back with a lot of strong-growing new branches! I saw such beautiful movement and story in that long broken thick branch that protrudes to the right from the base of the trunk. But I basically had to rebuild her a completely new frame from here bottom upwards! With all-new branches on an in my eyes a very promising live base for something daring?! But such a change to create a vision you have from your inspiring living entity don’t come too often when you live in an almost Yamadori less country like Holland! So, of course, I went for it!
Below: An hour later in itsnew pot with plenty of room to grow fast producing lots of growth on the fast thickening branches!
Below: 24-4-2016. After 6 years of heavy feeding and free growing, it is time for branch selection and foliage thinning. All this time I was thinking a lot about how to utilise that long almost ripped off to the right protruding Jin in my design!
Below: One hour and one full garbage back with cut off branches later, this is all that was left of the 6 years of growth! The new top truck section was in this time gone from pinky thick to wrist-thick…amazing!
Below: 17-9-2020. And this is how she looks today. A windswept Yew. Besides som guidewires, there is not much wire on it at this moment. The future plane is that in just a few more years it will look like a Yew that is bettered by seasonal winds and storms from the left-behind. The direction of the deadwood and long Jin are a prove off just how fears and devastating these winds are! In the near future when all the now still young branches are more matured and a bid fuller with small foliage, the outline of the foliage pads and the total outline image will be more clearer! But no way with perfectly triangle-shaped foliage peds on exuberant bright deadwood as we see so often these days! Nothing wrong with that, don’t get me wrong! But with limited and precious time on my hand…why should I do what so many others have done before? I wanted to create my expression of strong wind trough a struggling but surviving tree! And it happens to be this Yew with that long Jin that started the thought of that idea again in my head! Funny how those things go?! And now the hunt for a special rectangular pot has begun and the next couple of years will be spent on filling and refining all the smaller foliage and deadwood. Height: 65cm/26 inch.
In late March 2012 I was invited by my dear new friends from beautiful Slovenia to come collecting in May. I was all excited because we here in Holland don’t have much Yamadori and not in the least place because I had to make the long 11 hours drive up their alone for the first time! Their welcome was just as heartwarming as the collecting experience the next day! They took me to a large field where Prunus mahaleb grew in between and over boulders. They where over many years roughly cut back witch created tons of deadwood all over! And forest and or ignited fires had torched that deadwood just like we try to imitate on our Bonsai! They were truly amazing and I was over the moon when they asked me: choose anyone you like! They were all looking for the best ones for me and then after seeing a bunch of super ones, this amazing one was the first one they collected for me and the star of this post! The amazingly burned deadwood that runs all along the trunk was why I fell for it…BIG TIME!
Below: They had to move some pretty large and awkward rocks to get to the roots and had to use a large saw to cut the roots to free it!
Below:After a few more days of fun with my friends in beautiful Slovenia and the long drive home in a car full of angry ants, I planted it in a plastic training pot.
Below:5-5-2012. YES!!! The first sign of life is there!
Below:6-6-2012. And more fresh foliage has appeared! Just look at that stunning natural burned deadwood!
Below:9-7-2012. Just look how much new foliage has appeared all over the trunk! Some of those lower small bottom branches that grow from just above the soil line will be bent down with wire into the soil to become new roots! This technique that I have done on my Hawthorns in the past is great to create the beginning of a good Nebari!
Below: 25-1-2014. With pain in my heart, I had to remove some of the beautiful but unusable Jins.
Below: 18-2-2015. The basic truck structure is more or less there already and the branches are allowed to grow freely to thicken.
Below: 22-4-2015. A new small branch has appeared from just above the soil line and is very useful to bend down to create a new root with! The red arrow points at one that I did back in 2012.
Below: With the help of two U shaped piece of wire the carefully bend down branch is held in to place.
Below: The Red and Green arrow point at two other ones that I created in 2012. As you can see this is a very easy technique to improve the Nebari!
Below: 9-6-2015. The tips of these new roots are kept above ground, so that they stay alive to change into roots and to thicken!
Below: 26-2-2016. The basic branch structure is getting there! It is a two trunk or even better a Mother and Child future Bonsai!
Below:26-2-2016. Up to now six new roots are successfully created this way, that otherwise would have never existed! So when you have the change to try it on any of your trees, go for it!!!
Below: 14-4-2018. This otherwise beautiful natural Jin is too bulky for the overall design so I will carefully reshape it with my Dremel power tool.
Below:14-4-2018. I really love to work on deadwood because you can creat and enjoy your work almost instantly!
Below:14-4-2018. I styled the whole Jin thinner and with more details and lengthened it more downward!
Below:14-4-2018.Then I carefully torched it to mimic the original cracked deadwood and then I applied pure Jin seal/lime sulfur over it to bleach it so that over time it will look just the same as the original burned deadwood!
Below:13-7-2020. The new roots are slowly getting stronger and will be hopefully sufficiently thicker by the time that the tree is ready to be showed.
Below:13-7-2020. The contrast in this close up between the colours of the amazing natural deadwood and the shinning bright new foliage is in my humble opinion just breathtaking! Ying/Yang in a Bonsai!
Below:13-7-2020. The branch placement and open spaces between them are very much to my liking, it already begins to look like a full-size tree!
Below:13-7-2020. The final picture (for now) of my “Mother and Child” Prunus mahaleb Yamadori. Height: 70 cm/28 inch. Base: 38 cm/15.5 inch.
I hope that she will be show worthy in 4 or 5 seasons and the hunt for a beautiful pot will start as soon as these scary times are behind us! I hope you like this story of this Yamadori so far?! Stay safe and keep them small! Cheers, Hans van Meer.
Why? Because then you will also remove all the Mycorrhizae Fungi that your Pine needs so hard to survive! Why this warning? Well, a few weeks ago I came across a Bonsai care video on YouTube by a very popular online Bonsai amateur who advocated and then showed how he with a water hose removed all the soil together with the O SO valuable Mycorrhizae from his Mugo Pine?! Giving a lot of newbies that watch his channel completely the wrong and harmful information!
What are mycorrhizae and how do they work and help our Bonsai to grow healthy?
Mycorrhizae are actually a fungus. They exist as very tiny, almost or even entirely microscopic, threads called hyphae. The hyphae are all interconnected into a net-like web called a mycelium, which measures hundreds or thousands of miles—all packed into a tiny area around the plant. 99.9 percent of all plants live together with Mycorrhizae and benefits from it!
In nature mycelium of a single Mycorrhiza, in turn, can extend outward, connect multiple plants (even plants of different species!), and even connect with other Mycorrhizae to form a Frankenstein-like underground mash-up called a common Mycorrhizal network.
In a common Mycorrhizal network, it’s hard to tell where one mycorrhiza ends and another begins. Because of this vast network, a single plant can be connected to a completely different species of plant halfway across a forest!
Mycorrhizae actually connect to plants in two ways. One form, called ectomycorrhizae, simply surrounds the outside of the roots (e.g., Pines). Another form, called endomycorrhizae, actually grows inside of the plant—their hyphae squeeze in between the cell wall and the cell membranes of the roots (sort of like wedging themselves in between a bicycle tire and the inner tube).
Under normal conditions, you’re not likely to see Mycorrhizae because they’re so small. But every once in a while, something amazing happens: the Mycorrhizae will reproduce and send up fruiting bodies that produce spores—we call them mushrooms and they can some times even be seen growing in our Bonsai pot next to a Pine! Some of these mushrooms are even edible, like truffles or chanterelles.
Below: This pretty Picture from late September 2009 shows some beautiful harmless mushrooms growing between the roots of my old Chinees Pinus parviflora (white pine)! They can’t do any harm as long as they don’t grow from in-between the live bark or on your deadwood! This old friend has not been repotted for some 7 or 8 years now!
How do plants help Mycorrhizae?
Plants make great gardeners. Just like we fertilize our gardens, plants feed their own Mycorrhizae. Plants will take excess sugar produced in the leaves through photosynthesis and send it to the roots. From here, the mycorrhizae are able to absorb it to sustain themselves. There is very little sunlight underground, and even if there was, the Mycorrhizae wouldn’t be able to harvest it like plants because they don’t have the equipment needed for photosynthesis. The sugar from the plants literally keeps the Mycorrhizae fed and alive.
How do Mycorrhizae help plants?
Plants don’t give up their valuable sugar resources just for the fun of growing fungus gardens. They get a lot of things in return from the mycorrhizae, mostly in the form of nutrients.
Most plants are able to get nutrients themselves through their fine roots, but they have a limited ability to do so. Their roots need to be in direct contact with the soil to absorb the nutrients, and plant roots only grow so small. Fungi, on the other hand, can get much smaller. Fungal hyphae can wedge in between individual bits of soil to cover almost every available cubic millimeter of soil. This increases the total surface/feeding/drinking area enormously and allows the plants much greater access to nutrients than they could ever get by themselves. For many plants living under difficult conditions, they wouldn’t be able to survive at all without mycorrhizae. BUT! And here gomes the important part for every Bonsai grower: Some desidius trees and all CONIFERS dont have those all importand fine roots and are there for tottaly dependent on Mycorrhiza for there survivel!!!
What those Mycorrhizae do for its host? Wel it absorbs nutrients such as phosphorus and magnesium and brings it directly to the plant roots. Here, they exchange the nutrients they’ve collected for some sugar. It’s a fair trade, and both sides benefit greathly from it for many millions of years now. The Mycorrhiza treads can absorb even the finest water particles in the soil and deliver them to the fine tree roots! These absorption tree roots can only absorb water trough osmosis (pressure differences). With too little water, those fine roots just cant do their job! But the Mycorrhiza can and there for are the best stress manigers for all plants, they help to deal with large variations in temperature, soil conditions and therefore also dehydration!
Additionally, the Mycorrhizae help plants out in a whole bunch of other ways. Mycorrhizae hardence and helps to protect their plants against diseases, salt and toxins. Mycorrhizae can also serve as a sugar delivery service when plants shuttle sugar back and forth to different plants connected to the same common Mycorrhizal network. Perhaps most bizarrely of all, the common Mycorrhizal network can also serve as a means for plants to “talk” to each other—an Internet made out of fungus!
Putting it all together!
Mycorrhizae forms an invaluable part of ecosystems around the world, and can be found in some form or another in just about any ecosystem. In many places, whole forests and ecosystems wouldn’t exist at all without their mycorrhizal friends!!!
Tip: When you repot your Pine make sure to collect as many of the very recognisable white Mycorrhizae threads from the root ball and pot that into the rootball in the fresh new soil! This will help the making of a new healthy roots environment enormously!
In short: to all newbies Bonsai friends who read this article: Don’t take just one person’s word or video for the Bonsai truth! Because the number of video views doesn’t show if anyone is a knowledgeable Bonsai authority or not! But their Bonsai/work often dos! Look things up in books and online or watch video from people that truly know what they are talking about! Join a Bonsai Club and talk, ask and learn there from the people with experience and Bonsai that clearly show that they understand Bonsai!
Cheers and stay safe,
Hans van Meer.
Note: that for me to get it all just right and in proper understandable words I used parts of it from free to use sources! If I can find the right info, so can you! 😉
During my last week search trough, thousands of foto’s I came across some forgotten foto’s I made of the first styling of a Yamadori Juniperus sabina I did way back in 2004. This tree was a gift from my old Bonsai friend and highly regarded college Serge Clement from Switzerland. He gave it to me right after that years Noelanders Trophy and it was if I remember it well used as a demo tree by one of the other demonstrators that year?!
Below: At home the next day I removed all the copper wire and then this Sabina is basically needly cleaned virgin material again! It now was pretty basic material with a nice Shari running along its trunk.
Below: The biggest problem that I faced was that the long base of the tree that was growing from the front of this container to the back of the container where it finally decided to grow upwards, but still away from us, and it would take some heavy bending to make it more compact and interesting!Basically, that top needs to be placed above that section were the trunk appears from the soil!
First, the whole top was tightly wrapped with a layer of in water-soaked Raffia and then lengths of aluminium wire were placed lengthwise on the outside of the to make heavy bend. Then the other layer of wet raffia was applied over it all and only then was I able to slowly and safely but with great force bring the whole top section in its new place!
Now fast-forward some 8 years to the year 2012 at the last edition of dear friend Tony Tickles famous/infamous Burrs Bonsai weekend experience where I was once again one off the lucky teachers. My friend Mickey from the UK who the year before became the new care tacker of this tree was also there and had brought along the Sabina of this story to further improve it. A college teacher had told the disappointed owner Mickey (bellow) that it would be difficult to bend the thick and old trunk that fare. So realy motivated we first tightly applied a layer of in water-soaked Raffia and then a few lengthwise placed 4 mm copper wires on the outsides of the curve and then another layer of Raffia and then normal wiring on top of that. And then we together slowly bended the whole top section from the back side (see picture) to the front side of that trunk without any trouble. Micky had the time of his live! 😊 I wonder how they both are doing and I hope fine and healthy! 👍😊
Above: before bending with owner Micky. I am so excited!!!😬😁
Above: Sucses! The whole top is compleatly on this (front) side of the trunk now!But because of all the heavy bending, the fine wiring would be done later when the tree shows she is healthy and without any ill effects or weakness from what we have don! Patience is an important basic tool we all need in this hobby/art form!The deadwood was treated with Lime Sulfur to bleach it and to protect it.
The main reason in my opinion why the large wound treatment that I now and then use is not so popular is that it has just a very small percentage of success and that is perfectly understandable! But remember that it is used in situations were otherwise large branches or roots would have been completely cut off leaving large wounds on our Bonsai, that in most cases never heal leaving ugly large scars…so what is there to lose?! And if it those work…well then there is everything to gain! But judge for yourself!
This little Hawthorn was collected by me during a collecting trip in Wales way back in ’98 or ’99 with Tony Tickle and Terry Foster. During that collecting of this beauty, I had to cut through a massive root to be able to collect it!
Below:Just a few years later during it’s first repotting I saw that lots of tinny new roots were growing from everywhere including the sides of that thick and massive root so I decided to shorten it even further to stimulate new roots to grow even closer to the trunk!
And another few years later when enough healthy side roots were growing from closer to the trunkline that still massive root was shortened even more and with my Dremel I carved coming in from the cut side a wedge shape out off over the length of that root making sure not to wound the bark! And then I carefully folded the saved bark back over the V-shaped wood and secured them in place with some pines. Cracked bark on the newly created (now) two roots were protected with Cutpaste. I figured out that nothing was lost trying this and if it would not work…well then I could always cut it off and live with another large wound on such a small tree?!
Below: Skip over to November 2012 and this is how those now 2 roots look! The bark has already aged a lot and is growing in almost all places needly around the created root shape!
Below:And then skip forward some 8 years to see how the roots look today! Still alive and looking pretty convincing in my humble opinion! Only the right one has a tinny strip of deadwood on the inside..but that makes it only more convincing and in style with the image of this battered old Lil’ tree! And be honest, this looks so much better than another gaping big scare on such a little tree?! So when possible give it a try…you never know?! And you can always cut it off later! Cheers and stay safe, Hans van Meer.
In the early 50 of the last century, growers in the little famous village “Boskoop” inHolland started to grow on a larch scale among others Chamaecyparis obtusa nana gracilis or Hinoki cypress. This species proved to be very hard to grow from cuttings so they started to graft them on to the much stronger and faster-growing Chamaecyparis lawsoniana. The survival rate was much higher and the plant has a higher survival rate. But because of that, the bottom root section/base of this new plant grew much faster than the top section and that is why we now still will almost always find older Chamaecyparis with overly large ugly bulging root bases! A second big problem with Chamaecyparis lawsoniana as root base is that it is highly susceptible to the Phytophthora cinnamomi mold (root rot) and many field needed to be destroyed because of this! But I am digressing! Any how…somewere in the middle nighties I was visiting one of the literary hundreds of growers smack right in the middle of famous Boskoop. Where I started a conversation with the grower after he had been watching me for a while on my knees in the dirt looking under the bottom branches of a mighty original Chamaecyparis obtusa nana gracilis. He asked me why I was so interested in just this field full of old Hinoki’s? I explained enthusiastically just why I loved them and for what I wanted to use them if I had one! And then he told me the story of how he as a jong boy in the 50ties had planted this, than mutch larger field, together with his father! And that since then over the last 40+ years literary thousand of cuttings were taken from these so-called “Mother” plants and grafted onto stronger roots to be later shipped all over the world! I was over the moon that I was exclusively allowed to dig up 3 of these ungrafted and on their own original root base old beauties! And because all those constant cuttings were taken/cut off for so many years, all the foliage was growing still relatively close to the trunks and very usable for my future styling plans.
Below: And this is number one of those three Hinoki’s that I would collect that happy day! This one is about 110 cm high in this photo that was made when I proudly showed it in the 2009 prestigious Noelanders Trophy X. I sold it some two years ago to my student and dear friend Diederick who is now proudly the new caretaker and artist to take care of it.
The second one I collected that day in Boskoop, I later styled for the first time during my second demonstration ever at my then Bonsai club “KOYA” in Rijswijk (Holland). Later I entered the foto’s of this first styling into the national Bonsai styling competition to decide who would enter the Europian jong Bonsai talent competition that year. But I was excluded because they wrongly accused me of being a professional?! Many many years later it was sold to old student Ed van der Reek who brought this Hinoki to great heights and even won a nomination with it in the Noelanders Trophy!
Below:Oktober 2006 still in my garden. It always was a special tree!
And this is the story of the third and biggest Hinoki that I collected that day.
In 1998 I was invited to demonstrate at the 1999 E.B.A convention in Stratford Upon Avon and I immediately thought of my number 3 Chamaecyparis for my demo tree! It would be a big job to finish it in time, but I just had to try to style this unique tree! Luckily my old friend Carlos van der Vaart helpt me (in amazing hot temperatures) to wire all those branches! My other old friend inventor of the “SAMURAI” carving tool William Vlaanderen was so kind as to bring this large tree with him on his bus. He had wrapped it tightly with plastic foil for the trip, but it had been so hot during his long trip that the poor tree had started evaporating enormously! So much so that all small branches had turned brittle and breakable! So the extra care was necessary…but I made it in time!
Below: Carlos and I sweating away for many hours! 🥵😅
And because of this amazing tree, I had the privilege to meet two big names in the world of Bonsai: the very friendly Hinoki lovers Chase Rosade and his lovely late wife Solita from the USA! And they were really impressed with my Hinoki and the story behind it! Both a bit of an expert in this field had never seen anything like mine! And that made me even more proud of this tree and his legacy!😊
Below: And after a lot of hard work a warm but very proud me with the final result.
Note: the top of the foliage ends in this 1999 picture about 30 cm/12 inches under that Jin top! When I started to work on it again just a few weeks ago the top was 25 cm/10 inches cm above that same Jin! That is more or less 55cm/22 inches of growth in 20 years!!! And the trunk base has almost doubled in size without (of course) any swelling!
Back at home it was planted with no problems in a large proper pot! This was as expected because the groundwater level in Boskoop is very high all year round and rootballs are ones every year cut to size with a spade and are because of that always compact and never thirsty! Since then it has been repotted only ones into a new beter brown collored pot and it lifes still very happy in that one today!
Last year I shorted two thick branches that were growing in the top and just last month I cut off about half of all the too long branches to open up the inner part ofthe smaller branches and foliage to re direct sunlight so that they could gain in strength! Backbudding is always an issue with Hinoki’s and it is a constant struggle to not lose growing power on the inner parts of the tree! Light is a must and cutting back new growth with fine and sharp scissors (never pinch!!!) is a very important task! New growth on older branches is very rare so you don’t want to loos what you got!!!
Below: The amazing flakey trunk base with an old root Jin.Perimeter:56cm / 22inch
Below:Finally, the whole beautiful old trunk line can be seen again! And when it is recovered well from this whole operation then it will be wired again and repotted with new soil into this same pot again!
The backside of this tree was always facing the wall so always in the shadow side and that meant that the Jin was always longer wet on the backside for 2 decades-long and that means that the front sunny side is still as it was when it was just stript off its bark…but the backside was so rotten on the outside that I could shape it with my bare fingers and a steel brush. Peeling it away until the stunning natural-looking unrotten wood was revealed! Looks better than any power or hand tool could ever do! 😍So from now on the front side of this Jin will be kept moist as much as possible to create the same stunning effect on the frontside deadwood as on the backside!
Below: All needly trimmed and opened up and now fingers crossed for lots of back budding and inner growth.
I hope you all enjoyed this short story about these 3 amazing old Dutch Urban Yamadori Hinoki’s?! Cheers and stay safe, Hans van Meer.